Seam for sewed articles



March 10. 1925.

C. W. MUELLER SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES Quorum Patented Mar. 10, 1925.

UNITED STATES 1,528,984 PATENT OFF-ICE.

CHARLES W. MUELLER, 'OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, 'ASSIGNOR TO LEWIS INVISIBLE STITCH MACHINE 00., A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

Application filed'J'anuary '7, 1924. Serial No. 684,746.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that CHARLES W. MUELL R, citizen of the United. States, residing at 4648 Pope Ave, St. Louis, in the State of Missouri, has invented certain new and useful Improvements in Seams for Sewed Articles, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to seams for sewed articles and more particularly to blind stitch felling scams wherein the edge portion of a superimposed layer is secured to a base layer without displaying any of the stitching thread upon the lower or fair side of the base layer.

Heretofore, in stitching the fell or the superimposed layer to the base layer, the stitcheshave all been tightly set and as a result a tight seam has been produced but the setting of the stitches has caused a line of dimples or puckers to appear on the fair side of the base layer. Various attempts have been made to form a suficiently tight seam for practical purposes and at the same time eliminate said line of dimples, but thus far these efforts have not been en tirely satisfactory. If the needle thread'tension is reduced all of the stitches will be loosely set and this Will create a seam of such looseness as to be prohibited from general practical usage.

Therefore, one of the principal objects of my invention is to provide a felling scam in which the superimposed layer is connected to the base layer by a line of stitches formed with a blind stitch sewing machine which will positively prevent the appearance of the dimples referred to above and at the same time create a sufficiently tight seam to meet practical requirements.

In the accompanying drawings which illustrate one embodiment of my invention Figure 1 is an enlarged plan, view of such a seam.

Figure 2 is a vertical sectional view more or less diagrammatic, taken on the line 2-2 of F igure 1, and

Figure 3 is a sectional view more or less diagramma-tic taken on the line 33 of Figure 1.

Like reference numerals represent corresponding parts in all the figures of the drawing.

In the accompanying drawing, the fabric is indicated generally by the numeral 5 and includes a base layer6 and a superimposed layer 7, the latter being in this case an integral part of the base la yer and forming a hem or fell. The marginal edge portion of the superimposed layer 7 is provided with a binding S and this binding is secured to the superimposed layer by a line of through-and-through stitches 9. The superimposedlayer is secured to the base layer by aline of stitches all of which penetrate the superimposed layer. The superimposed layer 7 and the base layer 6 are secured together by a line of blind stitches of the lock-stitch type consisting of a needle thread 10 and a bobbin thlfead 11, all of said blind stitches penetrating the superimposed layer .7. At intervals, preferably regular-intervals,for regular spacing thereof, certain of the blind stitches which pene- 1 trate the superimposed layer 7 also pass into and out of the upper face of the base layer 6. The blind stitches which penetrate the superimposed layer only are tightly set whereas those blind stitches which also pass into and out of the upper face of the base layer a-re'loosely set. As a result, a sutliciently tight seam for all practical purposes is created and the formation of dimples or puckers on the under or fair side of the base layer is prevented. These stitches are preferably formed through the instrumentalities of a needle 12, and a cooperating hook (not shown). 'The needle 12 oscillates about ahorizontal axis arranged at an angle to the general line of the seam. and in this instance I have shown the needle as oscillated in a vertical-plane at an angle of substantially 45to the general line of seam[. The needle enters the superimposed layer 7 at a point adjacent the line of through-and-through stitches 9 which secures the binding to the superimposed layer, and preferably under the marginal edge portion of said binding. The needle thread 10 is formed into a series of loose penetrant loops 13 and also into a series of tight penetrant loops 14, the latter being alternately disposed with respect to the loops 13. The loose needle thread loops 13 pass through the superimposed layer 7 and thence into and out of the upper face of the base layer 6, and the bite of each loop projects above the face of said base layer. The tight loops 14 do not pass into the base layer 6, but preferably terminate between the upper and lower faces of the superimposed layer 7. All of the needle thread loops, viz: 13 and 14 are keyed, that is locked, by the bobbin thread 11. This bobbin thread and the loose needle thread loops 13 are loosely concatenated, whereas the tight needle thread loops 14s are tightly concatenated with the bobbin thread. Inasmuch as the concatenations of each tight needle thread loop 14 and the bobbin thread is located within the super imposed layer 7, a sutlicient friction between the fabric and the threads will be created to retain the concatenation in its set relation.

It will also be observed that the needle thread 10 which connects the needle thread loops is covered or concealed by the binding 8. Consequently, the blind stitches are invisible from either side of the seam.

I claim:

1. In a blind-stitch hem or seam for sewed articles, the combination of a base layer of fabric, a superimposed layer thereon, and a single series of stitches each including a keyed penetrant loop, all of said stitches penetrating throughand-through the superimposed layer, regularly recurrent stitches less than the whole number thereof being set loose and passing into and out of the upper surface of the base layer, and the intervening stitches being tight and free from the base layer.

. 2. In a blind-stitch hem or seam for sewed articles, the combination of a base layer of fabric, a superimposed layer thereon, and a single series of lock stitches each including a penetrant loop of needle thread extending at an angle to the general line of the seam, and a key for said loops formed of a bobbin thread, all of said loops pene trating said superimposed layer, regularly recurrent loops less than the whole number thereof passing into and out of the upper surface of the base layer and being loosely keyed by the bobbin thread, and the intervening loops being free from the base layer and tightly keyed by the bobbin thread.

3. In a blind stitch hem or seam for sewed articles, the combination of a base layer of fabric, a superimposed layer thereon, and a single series of lock stitches each including a penetrant loop of needle thread extending at an angle to the general line of the a bobbin thread, all of said loops penetrating said superimposed layer, every other loop passing into and out of the upper surface of the base layer, and being loosely keyed by the bobbin thread and the intervening loops being free from the base layer and tightly keyed by the bobbin thread.

4:- In a blind-stitch hem or seam for sewed articles, the combination with a felled fabric including a base layer and a superimposed layer, of a binding secured to the edge portion of the superimposed layer by a line of straight-away through-and-through stitches, said line of stitches being spaced from the edge of the binding to form a resultant marginal free edge portion, and a single series of blind stitches each including a keyed penetrant loop, all of said blind stitches penetrating through the superimposed layer at points under the marginal edge portion of the binding, regularly recurrent stitches less than the whole number thereof passing into and out of the upper surface of the base layer, and the intervening stitches being free from the base layer.

In a blind-stitch hem or seam for sewed articles, the combination with a felled fabric including a base layer and a superimposed layer, of a binding secured to the edge portion of the superimposed layer by a line of straight-away throughand-through stitches, said line of stitches being spaced from the edge of the binding to form a resultant marginal free edge portion, and a single series of blind stitches each including a keyed penetrant loop, all of said blind stitches penetrating through the superimposed layer at points under the marginal edge portion of the binding, regularly recurrent stitches less than the whole number thereof being set loose and passing into and out of the upper surface of the base layer,

and the intervening stitches being tight and free from the base layer.

In testimony whereof I hereunto aflix my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

CHARLES W. MUELLER.

Witnesses C. L. NIEUMAN. J. H. ANDERSON. 

